自製美白保濕果酸化妝水【升級版】| DIY AHA BHA & HA Toner
更正啟事
維他命B3 - 感謝兩位觀眾林志青 & 成為配方師雙雙指出「Niacinamide（維他命B3）最怕的就是跟果酸類的放在一起，它會轉化成Niacin，會導致使用者臉部發生刺激及發紅」。我自己在分享前使用6個月並沒有任何刺激或發紅的狀況產生，可能是加入或使用的量並不是那麼多。
玻尿酸 - 另外林志青也指出「玻尿酸不能跟果酸類的原料放在一起，好好的成分就這樣被犧牲了」，所以我改為選加
如同我在「自製保養品基礎測量（影片剪輯中 coming soon）」文中所提，任何的DIY，不管是自製保養品還是自己敲釘子，都要小心。我也多次在影片中提到，分享DIY的目的並不單純是鼓勵DIY，而是分享去認識、了解成分的過程，希望消費者都能學無止盡，去看懂學習各種產品成分，不要只是盲目地購買。由衷地很謝謝兩位的指正，也希望未來有更多專業人士能夠跳出來，幫忙檢視市面上的產品和網路資訊喔！
Corrections
Niacinamide - Thanks to two of my Mandarin speaking audience, who seemingly are professional formulators (their YouTube channels: 林志青 & 成為配方師), have pointed out that mixing Niacinamide with AHA can cause skin irritation. After using the toner for 6 months on myself before sharing the recipe, I did not experience any irritations on my skin. It could be because the amount used in the recipe or applied is quite minimal.
HA - One of them also mentioned that it’s a waste to add hyaluronic acid powder in such a formulation as the pH would be too low (below 5) for it to serve any real purpose. Therefore, I’ve updated it to Optional below.
As I’ve stated in my post Why I Don't Measure Ingredients by Weight (coming soon), please be sensible with anything DIY, whether it’s skincare or hammering a nail. I truly appreciate all correction and feedback.
AHA & BHA toner is one of the very first DIY skincare I tried making four years ago. It is essential to my skincare routine. I use it daily in the evening - after cleansing my face, I soak a cotton round with the toner and gently buff my skin for a light exfoliation.
I have since come a long way with both my skincare routine and my homemade skincare, and this is an upgraded version that I use now. I’ve learned about microbiome and balancing my skincare ingredients, and how to better dissolve salicylic acid. I’ve found that using a combination of acids but each in lower percentages works more effectively on my skin, without causing irritations. I use my beloved allantoin and niacinamide from My Top 5 Active Skincare Ingredients, as well as hyaluronic acid to sooth and moisturize the skin in addition to the variety of acids.
In terms of acid choices, I’d never go without salicylic and mandelic acid. The others I tend to use and rotate, depending on what I have available in my ingredient cabinet. Glycolic acid is a comparatively cheap and effective option. I also like the visible brightening effects of tranexamic acid, though it is usually pricier. Kojic acid and lactic acid are also common on my roster. I usually use 3~4 AHA & BHA in total (so salicylic and mandelic plus one or two other). With the exception of salicylic acid and 70% glycolic acid solution, which I use more in quantity in this recipe, I’d use others in equal amounts of ¼ teaspoon as a general rule of thumb.
To whip up this potion, I’d mix salicylic acid powder with glycerin into a slurry and set aside. In a separate container, I then use water of around 50~60°C to dissolve allantoin. Add Phase 1 into Phase 2, and the salicylic acid should dissolve nicely with the higher temperature. In a third container, I’d mix the rest of the ingredients and stir with a handheld electric milk frother. The HA takes longer to dissolve, so sometimes I’d make it a day ahead and let it sit for a day. Once everything is dissolved nicely, I then add the combined solution of Phase 1 & 2 to Phase 3. Give everything a good stir, mix in your preferred broad spectrum preservative and it’s done.
我使用的原料比例:
Phase 1
水楊酸粉 Salicylic Acid 2ml | ½ tsp 茶匙
甘油 Glycerin 2ml | ½ tsp 茶匙
Phase 2
尿囊素 Allantoin 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
水 Warm Water 120ml
Phase 3
花水 Hydrasol 100ml
玻尿酸粉 Hyaluronic Acid Powder 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙 (Optional 選加 - Please read Correction above 請閱讀更正啟事)
維他命B3粉 Niacinamide Powde 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
麴酸 Kojic Acid 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
苦杏仁酸 Mandelic Acid 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
甘醇酸 70% Glycolic Acid Solution 5ml | 1 tsp 茶匙
複方抗菌劑 Broad Spectrum Preservatives 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙 (或依產品建議比例，一般北美DIY部落客建議Liquid Germall Plus這個品牌)
