自製A酸神經醯胺逆齡抗痕精華液 | DIY Vitamin A Ceramides Serum
Over time, I’ve received a couple requests for DIY vitamin A skincare on my channel. On and off, I’ve included commercial products containing retinol or retinoid in my routine, so I do have a decent level of tolerance for it. Vitamin A palmitate or retinyl palmitate, the mildest of its family, is the only available form of vitamin A ingredient that us common folks can get our hands on.
Since vitamin A palmitate is oil soluble, I could simply add some to my skincare oil of choice, and create something like The Ordinary Retinol X% in Squalane and call it a day. However, since I’m quite slow to release recipes, I feel a little bad to put something that simple out there.
Vitamin A works well with other antioxidants, so I’ve decided to add niacinamide and allantoin, two of My Top 5 Active Skincare Ingredients. As I was browsing and contemplating on what I’d like to create, I came across Elizabeth Arden’s Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum. Adding ceramides with retinol stood out to me. I’ve tried EA’s capsule line products before and enjoyed it. Though my experience with ceramides hasn’t really stood out to me, I’ve used it in my DIY Nourishing Rescue Cream. And hey, if the smart scientists at EA think it’s a good idea to mix them, it should be pretty awesome right?
After a few trial, I am finally happy with this serum that glides across the skin and feels nourishing but not oily. It has the same baby-bum smoothing effects that I’ve previously experienced in other vitamin A products. Unlike some stronger commercial products I’ve tried, my skin does not peel or flake after the first use or even after continuous use for five consecutive nights. Of course, if you have sensitive skin or are not used to vitamin A, BHA, or AHA products, please be cautious. Do not apply in the morning.
To whip up this potion, I use warm water around 50~60°c to dissolve allantoin, then add niacinamide powder, ceramides complex and stir to dissolve completely. I then add Aristoflex to create a loose and slightly runny gel. I then add the polysorbate 20 and vitamin A palmitate to create a smooth custard. The polysorbate 20 helps incorporate the vitamin A and the AVC gel texture helps the vitamin A oil to suspend in the solution. Once everything is well combined, I add a few drops of essential oil for scent and my broad spectrum preservatives.
The serum works well with a pump bottle or a squeeze tube, but if you prefer something simpler, there’s nothing wrong in putting it in a face cream container or a simple chug and pour bottle. Nonetheless, I wouldn’t recommend a dropper bottle as it is a slightly thicker serum.
Water Phase
溫水 Warm Water 75ml
尿囊素 Allantoin 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
維他命B3 Niacinamide Powder 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
神經醯胺 Ceramides Complex 2ml | ½ tsp 茶匙
AVC 凝膠粉 Aristoflex (Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙
Oil Phase
維他命A酯醇棕櫚酸酯 Vitamin A Palmitate/Retinyl Palmitate 2ml | ½ tsp 茶匙
Polysorbate 20/Tween 20 2ml | ½ tsp 茶匙
Essential Oil of Choice 精油 3~5 drops 滴
Broad Spectrum Preservatives 複方抗菌劑 1ml | ¼ tsp 茶匙 (或依產品建議比例，一般北美DIY部落客建議Liquid Germall Plus這個品牌）